After a 20th anniversary show and the launch of a new jewellery collection, Sabyasachi Mukherjee dropped the one collection brides watch out for eagerly every year. As one of India’s biggest bridal couture brands, Sabyasachi’s offering for wedding wear is large and targeted to a wide audience.
Charbagh, the designer label’s winter/bridal 2019 line, is split into four categories—Devi, Nargis, Chowk and Isfahan. Acutely aware of what his brides demand, Mukherjee has diversified the aesthetic this season with the aim of being more democratic. There is Chowk for the rebellious bride. If you’ve been following Mukherjee’s work for long, you would notice the colour palette of Chowk is very similar to that used in his older collections. “As I travel more and more through the interiors of India, it never ceases to amaze me how rooted these textiles are. Something that comes out of an untrained eye becomes very modern because it is not affected by modernity. When I look at the way women in rural India dress, their naiveté and their authenticity in how they express themselves through their clothing make them almost arrogant and defiant in a positive way,” he frames his thoughts behind this line.
Devi is designed for the traditional brides whose ideal pick is statement red lehenga. Mukherjee has ensured that lehengas of varying price points are available in this range for customers with different appetites. Besides the local market, Sabyasachi is popular choice among NRIs for wedding wear as well. Keeping in mind the colour schemes of western weddings, Nargis features light pastels and pale embellishments.
Isfahan takes inspiration from Mughal-inspired motifs and colours. Velvet is a clear focus in this line, with lehengas and sherwanis crafted in the plush fabric. “Indian purple is replaced by a faded jamun, fuchsia gives way to pomegranate, and bright feroza comes shrouded in layers of patina.
Our royal costumes are a combination of velvets, organzas, muslins and mulmul, and I wanted to revive them for Isfahan. Most gloriously embellished with decadent zardozi in gold and silver, with tiny specks of mina in silk floss,” is how he describes the mood behind this line.
After dressing brides for some of the biggest weddings the country has seen, the brand is only gaining more popularity in this sector. Charbagh, which launches exclusively at the Vogue Wedding Show, is sure to set the tone for wedding dressing for the upcoming season.